Like all Italians, the Marchigiani take food and wine very seriously

Smart restaurants serving freshly-caught fish can be found on the coast, but inland you are more likely to come across small family businesses producing the same hearty peasant food that they have done for generations. Indeed, you may pass your lunch, still hopping about, on your way to the front door. Beware - meals can go on for hours and you should never fill up on the first three courses - there's always more to come. A real blow-out will only cost €15-20 each including wine

To whet your appetite, we recommend the Bar Futura in Comunanza for cheap, cheerful food which never disappoints, and wine by the jugful. It's perfect for children, particularly since they serve a maxi pizza which usually is the subject of a dare for the unwary. Or go no further than Montefalcone for your evening meal at La Sfinge, named after a rock formation that (with a bit of imagination) looks like a sphinx